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Earlier Archives

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  • My professional writer's site, with biographical info; links to selected essays and other published writing; reviews and comments; contact information.


  • My biography of Gene Robinson, the first openly gay bishop in the Episcopal Church, published by Soft Skull Press in June 2006

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Who was Cassandra?


  • In the Iliad, she is described as the loveliest of the daughters of Priam (King of Troy), and gifted with prophecy. The god Apollo loved her, but she spurned him. As a punishment, he decreed that no one would ever believe her. So when she told her fellow Trojans that the Greeks were hiding inside the wooden horse...well, you know what happened.

July 23, 2008

Obscurity and Struggle

Smokebush

"I don't know what to tell you," says the doctor. "This is the way it is when someone is dying. It isn't the heart, the kidneys, any one thing anymore. They pass in and out of lucidity. And it's very hard to tell you what to expect." He's a good guy, this doctor, and we don't have unreasonable expectations, of him or of this process. We're all waiting, wishing it could be easier.

There seems to have been a change starting on the weekend. My father-in-law is very weak but still insisting on getting up even though his legs won’t hold him; they're giving him morphine now as well as a sedative, to try to keep his blood pressure down, help his groaning, and keep him a little more manageable because he's been really angry, disoriented, and unable to communicate what he wants. He's refusing his other medications, and today, even water, though he ate last night, and apparently it's been a real struggle to give him the morphine and lorazepam. It seems like we're getting down toward the end but that it's going to be a struggle right up to the final moment; J. and I will be heading down there again tomorrow.

Why the refusal to give up, to go gently? Because peace flowing out of a simple conclusion never suited this contradictory man, whose mind has wrestled with the big questions as long as it could - and perhaps still is, as he grapples with confusion, growing darkness, and the fear he might have been wrong. Life -- the material body and the rational mind -- are what he knows and what he can hold onto as true. The rest: unknowable, and, except in poetic speculation, that was never the territory he wanted to travel.

July 21, 2008

Fa-sin-eh-ting!

How to do (and not do) an American accent: lessons for Brits from a famous acting/speech coach. Living in Montreal, where many English-speakers are either truly British or have a British accent, I'm more aware than ever of my American way of speech but hard put to identify exactly what I do that gives it away: here's the start of an explanation, amusingly delivered. Repeat after me: fleece, creep, speak...

July 20, 2008

Of Crêpes, Cats, and Calmness

Cafeolympico_1

Café Olimpico wasn't crowded when we arrived yesterday mid-morning, but half an hour later the line for coffee stretched all the way across the room. This little girl waited patiently for her mother; when we left she was eating a croissant and a small container of yogurt, and talking happily between every bite.

While V. and I ordered lattes, the guys went down the street to buy buckwheat crepes, which arrived folded in half and then in thirds to form a point at the bottom, and wrapped in a paper cone. The crepes -- dark, crusty on the edges, and dotted with fine holes -- had been buttered and dusted with plain sugar, and they were just about the best I've ever eaten, accompanied by the strong milky coffee. Our friends, who love food and cooking, had been at the Jean-Talon market, and told us they'd left V.'s mother sitting at the dining room table shelling not one, not two, but four huge bags of fava beans. The mother, who is from eastern Europe and lived for years under Communist rule during which a number of family members were imprisoned or exiled for their anti-Communist activities, jokingly calls these sorts of tasks - common in their fresh-food-intensive household - "labor camp."

After our brunch the friends took off for a visit to R.'s family in the Eastern Townships, and we got back on our bikes and rode over to Avenue du Parc, where J. took pictures of the old Theatre Rialto, and I visited a fruiterie where I bought a small box of Quebec raspberries and two "black velvet" apricots, which looked (and tasted) like dark furry plums. I also visited an excellent poissonnerie where the fish and shellfish were displayed like jewels peeking from a crystalline covering of ice chips: wild salmon; olive green sea urchins; ruffly skate; huge langoustines; snow crabs from the Isles des Madeleines in the Gulf of St. Lawrence; a box of fresh smelt shimmering like coins in a treasure chest; buff-colored pasta clams the size of a man's thumbnail; shining black mussels. We didn't buy anything, finally -- it wasn't cheap -- but will go back some day when we're entertaining. Then a quick ride back through Mile End to Fairmont, where we stopped at the Japanese paper store and I bought three sheets of printed paper for a project, and then rode home through the blocks of brick duplexes and triplexes with their wrought iron staircases, windowboxes and front gardens overflowing with flowers.

Today has been nice too: though the air was very still, and the cathedral was hot and humid, we heard a Lassus mass setting and the sermon (taking off from the Gospel reading of the parable of the good and bad seeds to talk about the un-calm "garden" that is the Anglican Church these days) mentioned the Japanese Garden post from these pages a few days ago. (You never know what will happen when you write these things!) The postlude was very fine -- it was a piece I didn't know: the Bach Allegro from the Concerto in d after Vivaldi.

Catinchair

Then we went off to Verdun and a wonderful lunch at a friend's house, during which we got to meet her beautiful new cat: a different but equally inspiring vision of repose and tranquility. Back home -- a nap -- some email -- a chicken, mango, and avocado salad for dinner, and now an evening stretching before me with no plans but some reading and listening to music.

In other words, a restorative and happy weekend. I needed it and I'm grateful.

July 18, 2008

Waiting

Underwater

We arrived at his apartment in the evening, the day after he had called and said he was dying and wanted to tell J. he loved him. The next day he had severe angina – the first really intense episode since the angina attack and hospital stay that had precipitated this entire decline - and was given nitroglycerine tablets, then a nitro patch, then some morphine. When we got there he was resting comfortably in his bed, on sunny yellow sheets, wearing a dark blue nightshirt covered with white moons and stars. We didn’t stay long, and told him we’d come back the next day, which we did, arriving there around dinnertime. He refused food, though, having already eaten two big meals earlier in the day.

He moves painfully from the bathroom to his chair in the living room, stopping at the kitchen counter to collapse onto the seat of his walker and be pushed the rest of the way, eyes shut, loud moans accompanying each breath.“Let’s have some action!” he says, his eyes roaming anxiously around the room. “What are we waiting for?”

We sit in our own chairs, waiting, suspended with him in this interminable purgatory. After a cursory “hello” upon noticing us, he sits in his chair, moaning, unseeing, for a long time. Now his eyes open; I move the little rush-seated stool closer to him. “Let’s do something!” he insists, seeming agitated as he searches my face. “I think the three of us should take some action! Where are my shoes?”

“In the back room.”

“They’re hanging on a hook,” he elaborates, and then clutches at the neck of his bathrobe. “Where are my clothes?”

“Also in the back room.”

“What good are they, lying there? Let’s do something! The day is starting.”

It’s six in the evening, but no matter. “What do you want to do?”

No response.

“Shall we pretend it’s morning and we’re going to chapel?” He raises his eyebrows. “If you were going to speak to the students in chapel today, what would you tell them?”

“That I want to DIE!” The words emerge in a growl from between clenched teeth.

“Oh. I’m not sure they’re going to want to hear that.” He gives a slight, very slight, smile.

“When did we get to London?” he asks, suddenly.

“We’re not actually in London."

“Really?”

“No, unfortunately. If we were there we could go to the museum. Like we used to do after breakfast." He gives me another wan smile. I’m thinking fast. What to say next? “We had a lot of good times in London, didn’t we? Do you remember John W.? And Lady W.?”

“She’s dead!”

“Yes.”

“Is he dead now too?”

“No, he’s very much alive and always asks about you.”

“So we’re not in London?  Where are we?”

“In your apartment in X.”

He looks at me, astounded. “Really? Amazing!”

“See, all your books are here. Simone de Beauvoir.” He looked surprised again. “Up there on the shelf. Your daughter arranged all your books for you.”

“Alphabetically?”

“No, they’re more by subject area. That’s a little French section up there: Simone de Beauvoir, Stendhal, Andre Gide... you have a wonderful library.”

“Keep it!”

“I think we probably will. All your children have good libraries.”

He nods, and then sits, silent. At length he rouses himself and makes an announcement to the room: “I know what we’re waiting for.”

“What is that?”

“We’re all waiting for me to die.”

A little stunned, neither of us have any idea what to say, so we are silent as well.

“I’ve never heard of such a thing,” he goes on. “Putting someone in their bed for months and just waiting for them to die.” He shakes his head. “I don’t think it’s Christian.”

I think hard, trying to choose between various ways of responding. Finally I take the riskiest one. “So, would you prefer the hemlock?” I ask him, speaking gently.

“No,” he says solemnly and sadly. “I wouldn’t drink it.”

“Neither would I, probably. So I guess we just have to wait.”

“I suppose so,” he says, and shuts his eyes.

July 16, 2008

Japanese Garden, Take 2

 
5:00 pm: Hmm, no comments so far...I posted this because I'm curious about trying to express something inexpressible in different media. And I wonder how viewers/readers respond to grayscale vs color, moving images vs words, written words vs spoken words, and so forth. I don't think one way is right or better; it's just interesting to experiment and learn new ways of using the media we have available to us now. This was the first time I had managed to achieve something I liked mixing video with still images, but there's much more to be explored in that realm too. If anyone has feedback they'd like to share, I'm all ears.

July 12, 2008

The Japanese Garden

To listen to me reading this piece, you can download the audio file.

The weeping plum trees bow to the approaching visitor, before the entrance gate, before the tea house behind its screen of bamboo. A grassy lawn, curving paths, rocks, a stand of purple iris next to a yellow-flowered bush alive with bees. We hear the waterfalls before we see them, short broad cascades into wide pools, like stair landings, leading down into the greenish, still pond.

Japanesegardenbamboo

We circle counterclockwise, sit for a moment on a wooden bench in an open building where a group of German tourists consult their guidebooks, and another woman in a hat sleeps in the sun against the white wall, her head bent slightly to the side. The lesson here is texture and contrast: I run my hand along the undulating close-trimmed hedge of yellow-green juniper bordered by low reddish grass with softly swaying foxtail heads. In the curved knees of the juniper rest wide-leaved peonies, dark and glossy, now done with flowering and neatly dead-headed: what a sight they must have been a month ago. Above: old hemlocks and firs; the soft needles of tamaracks; white birches; a gingko; a pear.

Japanesegarden_pond_2

Water, too, is ordered: running here in a wide canal, here over rounded pebbles, here in a narrow stone channel; rushing over waterfalls, dripping from a mouth of bamboo, standing mirror-like in pools that reflect the sky. And from the murky green rise the koi, the size of human infants, fluttering their fins like wings: orange, canary yellow, alarming white. I stand on the wooden walkway and they rise to the surface, gasping, like guilty thoughts and forgotten promises, black-spotted, eyes rolling with reproach. Legless ones, captives in this watery limbo.

Japanesegardenmaindenhair

Japanesegardenpendants

I return their stare and then leave the platform, moving back onto the path, up into the shadows of taller trees where a thin squirrel digs furiously for the nut he’s hidden. On the edge of the black woods is a stand of maidenhair fern, lush and astonishing; beneath a fir, pale yellow pendant blooms hang above broad leaves where turquoise dragonflies are laying eggs with a delicately curving touch of their tails. The path circles back toward the pond; I stop in dappled shade to consider a close-trimmed boxwood  and rock, joined together in a lifelong pas de deux.


Japanesegardenboxwoodand

And here, glimpsed through the low branches of the spruces, a female duck stands, in one of the cascade pools, regal and calm, her long neck and back striped brown as if with a carefully-dripped glaze. On the bank, her half-grown brood sleeps in the sun, a beak tucked behind a wing, bodies comfortably and confusingly entangled into a unity of warm feathers and forgetfulness. The mother watches, on one foot,  timeless and motionless as bronze, except for the blinking of an eye.

Japanesegardenwaterfalls

July 10, 2008

Small Stones

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Underwater stones, Lake Champlain, Vermont

Today it's my pleasure to welcome Fiona Robyn, who is traveling the internet in July on a virtual blog tour for her new book, Small Stones: A Year of Moments. I've come to know Fiona and enjoy her writing both through her daily blog and at qarrtsiluni, where she has been a frequently-published contributor and a guest editor (of the Jan/Feb 2007 issue "Come Outside.")

I'm delighted to have this chance to share our recent conversation with you, and perhaps introduce some new readers to Fiona's precious, often surprising "small stones."

---

Fiona, I've really enjoyed your book. Your practice of attentiveness and writing about at least one particular, memorable thing in your day has, of course, a lot of resonance here at The Cassandra Pages! To begin, I wondered if you could say a few words about your dedication to Shunryu Suzuki, because his teaching was also very important to me.

Thank you. A friend recommended 'Zen Mind, Beginner's Mind' a few years ago when I told them I was getting interested in Zen thought, and I don't know about you, Beth, but I didn't understand much of it on my first read through!  Something about the spirit of the writing stuck with me, though, and several years later I read it again and went on to read his autobiography, 'Crooked Cucumber', which somehow moved me profoundly. I love the simplicity of Suzuki's message - 'just sit', 'nothing extra', 'when the bell rings, get up', but most of all I felt like I'd 'spent time with him' by the end of the book, and that it had been a great honour and learning opportunity.  What do you get from his writing?

My experience was almost the same - on the first reading I just didn't connect with the book, but about ten years later, it was a totally different experience, and each time I've  picked it up since, I've gotten more out of it. "When the student is ready, the teacher appears." I think what appealed to me especially was the gentleness of his teaching and writing. He's firm but kind, and the sort of perseverance and attention he speaks about made sense to me and have helped and changed me over time. But his prose also touched me deeply and particular passages, like the one about why we should polish the tile, or clever students having the most trouble, or Nirvana and the waterfall, made a huge difference to me. I'm profoundly grateful to him.

One thing I noticed and liked in particular about your "small stones" is that they're not all pleasant or beautiful. Could you say something about that, in light of what we've been talking about here?

I think praise as a practice is much neglected, and I much admire the work of bloggers like Clare Grant at Three Beautiful Things who help us to remember how much we have to be thankful for.  But as a writer I am interested in the whole truth, 'things as it is (sic)' as Suzuki might say!  Rather than looking away from road-kill or homeless people, I've found it more helpful to look more closely.  These things are a part of our everyday reality.  We all contain these dark places, and only we can start to acknowledge them, struggle with them, start bringing them out into the daylight.  I think Pema Chodron speaks well about these messy parts of us.  It's also an ongoing dilemma for me as a writer - will people keep reading if I describe the innards of this dead animal?  How much darkness (how much of my darkness) can people take?  I wonder if this is something that ever crosses your mind, Beth, when you are writing about your father-in-law?

Oh, definitely. And blogs are different from books, they aren't one-off; people visit a place regularly because they like what they find there. I know some readers come to the Cassandra Pages because they receive a feeling of solace and calm, and I worry sometimes about scaring them off!  But I'm totally with you, Fiona, in being more interested in truth than beauty, in its usual sense. We can learn to find the beauty in everything, even decay and death, even struggle and suffering. For a long time I thought the Buddhist idea about duality was that we couldn't see one side of the coin clearly unless we also saw the other: "for the moon there is the cloud," -- so suffering exists to make us appreciate non-suffering. But I've come to see that's not really it: the point is to face and even welcome difficulty, ugliness, pain because they have a great deal to teach us, and avoidance doesn't work: misfortune comes to all of us eventually so we're better off to learn how to deal with it. I like it that your small stones acknowledge reality. It made your book much more meaningful -- and beautiful -- to me!

On the other hand, I thought some of the most lyrical moments in the book came in your writings about the moon:

"the moon is so transparent you could slip a thumb-nail under the edge and peel it from the sky"

or

"(eclipse) the pale moon turns illm slips under a sheet of shadow"

or

"the translucent moon pinned on egg-shell blue, above the pink and billowing skirts of sky."

Like the Chinese poets, you've managed to come up with creative, original ways to speak about the most ordinary things we see everyday, things which are easy to ignore or often get written about it a hackneyed way. But they're still beautiful; they've spoken to human beings forever. It's a challenge, isn't it?

Thank you.  And yes - it is a challenge - and that reminds me of the process of editing the book.  I had three years worth of 'stones' to choose from, and a lot of them just didn't do it for me on re-reading.  It's as if I hadn't quite managed to translate the feeling of 'ooh!' or 'look at that!' into words.  Or maybe it was a combination of a failure of SEEING freshly enough with not being able to find the right fresh words.  I'm thinking of Suzuki again as I use the word 'fresh'...

"Even though you read much Zen literature, you must read each sentence with a fresh mind."

Even thought we often see the moon, you must look at the moon each time with a fresh mind!  Or try to, at least...  I'm glad the suffering made the book more meaningful to you, Beth - it feels heartening to me - that at least you are willing to hear about the poor fox on the roadside, or the troubled boy in the coffee shop.  I suppose, going back to Zen again, we also contain the fox and the boy, and so it is also as if you are able to hear about those dark places in me.  Having said that, light and fluffy is also good sometimes!

That's so true! And I want to stress that this isn't a "dark" book at all; I get the sense that you're a lot like me in trying to see the beauty in everyday life, and that as we practice this kind of noticing, it starts to color our whole life - and become something that we want to share with other people.
Fiona, I'm so glad we had this chance to talk, and I hope some of the readers of this blog will order your book and enjoy it themselves or give it as a gift. I feel so strongly about the merits of independent publishing that I've made a personal commitment to buy most of my book-gifts this way, and to try to support the many writer-friends I've found online.

I also want to tell you that I admire the calm, determined, professional way you're promoting Small Stones -- you're an example to all of us who are exploring this new world of publishing. Congratulations, and I wish you the best of luck with it!

That's very kind, Beth - it's been so heartening to receive support from my colleagues, especially blogging colleagues.  And I agree - I've gained such a lot over the years from 'pay-more-attention' practice that I'd love to spread the word!  It's been a pleasure to have this 'conversation' with you - not quite as good as coffee and cake in a local cafe but it'll have to do for now.  I'd be very happy to hear from any of your readers who have any comments/questions, and thank you for having me.

July 08, 2008

Beyond and Before

Champlainhorizon

Phone conversations have become almost impossible, and in person, they are at best happy but disjointed. Last week there was a crisis: a narcotic pain medication to try to help him sleep better threw him for a complete loop, resulting in several days of agitated disorientation. He shouted in frustrated Arabic a lot of the time, which we could only decipher with difficulty. And then, gradually, the medication wore off and was cleansed from his system, and he returned to the state he’s been in for a while now: part here, part in the past; fatigued and weak but still able to eat, get up for a few hours of sitting, still appreciative of brief visits even if the memory of them vanishes quickly. It goes like this:

The caregiver helps him into the living room, sometimes using his walker, more and more often the wheelchair. His eyes are nearly closed, and he groans with each step. Finally he lands in his chair, a controlled collapse with helping arms around him, and rests, eyes tightly shut now, while she brings his food, cut into small bites, and sets it on a tray in front of him. At length he opens his eyes and slowly, slowly, reaches for the fork, spears a bite of meat, maneuvers it toward his mouth, opens the mouth, places the morsel on his tongue, begins to chew with his few remaining teeth. This man whose great pleasure was eating, who I’ve seen wolfing down unbelievable portions of food and talking about the abundance and joy of eating for days after a wedding banquet or party – “the shrimp were enormous, and they had a great platter of them! The beef was so succulent, so tasty!” – is exhausted after four or five bites. On a good night, when there is something he especially likes – stuffed grape leaves, for instance - he’ll sit up and go on eating, with long intervals between, for an hour. But more and more it is like this. He’s not drinking enough either, and so the caregiver puts a small bowls of cut-up watermelon in front of him, and he picks at it for a long while.

After the meal he rests and then opens his eyes and looks at us. “I can’t make out who has died, or who died first,” he says, suddenly, sounded remarkably like himself. “I’m not sure if my uncles are still alive. Do you know?”

“Your uncles in Damascus? Is that who you mean?”

“Of course!”

“I think they are probably dead.” (They died forty years ago.)

“I think they may be too. But did my mother die too?”

“Yes.”

“I think she died before Uncle A, because I remember what he said when he heard the news. I can see him coming into the house. But of the rest I am not sure at the moment.”

“Do you remember going to the cemetery in Damascus with your sons?” I put my hand on J.’s shoulder to remind him this was one of them.

He thinks for a minute. “Yes. I remember reading the inscriptions.”

“And those were your parents’ graves…”

He looks unsure. “They may have been,” he says, finally. “How is your father?”

“He’s fine. He’s playing a lot of golf.”

His eyebrows shoot up. “Really! So he can still take aim.”

“Yep!”

“Alhamdullilah!” ("All praise belongs to Allah.") At this the J. and I burst out laughing, and he joins us, his shoulders shaking and his face in a big grin. It's the last thing we expect him to say in that context. The caregiver, sitting at her book in the corner, looks up with a surprised smile on her face.

“I brought you the Arabic papers from Montreal, Dad,” says J., when the laughter has passed.

“Oh.” I go over to the table and unfold the papers. “Do you think you can see the headline?” I ask. He shakes his head no. “Here,” I hold it up and show him the big red Arabic letters at the top.

He peers at the writing and sounds some of it out. “You're close -- this one is ‘Phoenicia’: it’s a Lebanese paper,” I tell him. “Look, here’s an ad for travel to Lebanon.” We look at the picture of an airplane in clouds together; I can’t tell if he can see it or not. The caregiver peeks at us, fascinated; she is new and doesn’t know much about him yet. “And look, here’s your old friend Bill Clinton, and Hillary and Obama.” He smiles wanly. “And here’s a priest – actually I think it’s a patriarch.”

At that he brightens up. “Which patriarch?” he asks.

“I don’t know. He’s all dressed up, though.”

“They all do that.”

“Maybe he's Greek,” I say. “I’m not sure and I can’t read any of this!”

He laughs. “Which one is the top now?”

“Which patriarch?”

“Yes, which one do they all defer to?”

“I don’t know but it seems like the Greek patriarch gets the most attention.” We look at an Egyptian paper after that, but he's losing interest, or perhaps it just depresses him to not be able to read any of it. It's hard to tell. I fold the papers and put them away.

“Is this spinach?” he asks, looking at an untouched pile of green on his plate.

“Yes. Do you want to try some?” He shakes his head no, and when the caregiver asks if he's finished he says yes, and she takes the tray away. But he doesn’t seem tired enough yet to want us to leave.

“Guess what I’m reading?” I ask, taking a chance.

“What?”

“Plato.”

“Good for you. Which one?”

The Republic. I read it forty years ago but it’s better this time around.”

He nods but I’m not sure if he’s remembering, or connecting.

“I didn’t remember how lively the dialogues were. He can be very funny too. He was a very smart man, your friend Socrates.”

“Not always,” he says, shaking his head. “The smartest one of my uncles was your father, the one I always met coming back down the hill.”

It's hard to make these quick adjustments, but we're getting better at it. Who did he think I was now? A cousin, obviously…“In Damascus?” I ask.

“Yes.”

“The one with the orchard in Bludan?”

“They both had orchards.” His eyes roll up toward the ceiling; it's easier to follow the memory than make an explanation. “Oh, the figs we used to eat from those trees!”

July 07, 2008

African Joy Closes Montreal Festival

20080706194(A huge thank you to J., for all the photos in this post.)

There are days when I feel like the most fortunate person in the world just because I live in this unique city, and yesterday was certainly one.

The day started with a quiet bike ride through deserted city streets to the Anglican cathedral, where, in honor of the jazz fest, there was a jazz mass. The musicians were the cathedral choir plus a four-person combo of excellent instrumentalists on sax,  piano, drums and bass, led by a priest from Toronto who preached and is also a gifted jazz pianist. Everything was informal and upbeat: there were improvs on all the hymns, the mass setting was a jazz improvisation on the William Byrd Mass for Four Voices, and at communion we heard Duke Ellington's "Come Sunday." I was the lector and got to read the great Genesis story of Isaac's servant finding Rebecca at the well and bringing her home to "slip off her camel" at the sight of her future husband. In the introduction to the reading I quipped that maybe I should sing the lesson as a ballad, since it's one of the great love stories of all time. Everybody laughed, but afterward the director said, hey, next year we should definitely accompany all the readings with music -- and get the jazz mass included in the festival programme.

In the evening, we joined a crowd of 100,000 people last evening for the free blow-out concert culmination of the jazz festival, by the legendary Guinean singer Mory Kanté and his 15-piece band. As before, we met friends a couple of hours early in order to stake out a good place, and snacked - in Montreal style - on the treats they'd brought: fresh figs, still-warm French bread, and Quebec camembert. 

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The concert was beyond fantastic. Not only was Kanté energetic, warm, happy, consummately musical, and accompanied by a wonderful band - the flute, marimba players and African drummer were especially fine - but the show was also colorful and varied, from the female backup chorus to the two male African dancers who wowed all of us with their moves toward the end of the show. Kanté, who was sent to Mali at the age of 15 to be schooled in the griot tradition,  also has an acoustic band and highlights of the show, for me, were two quieter songs he performed in that tradition, playing the kora that was given to him by the Malian music and spiritual master Batrou Sekou Kouyate. But don't get me wrong: I was dancing the whole time, along with my Latin-dance-loving friend D., from Colombia, who must have gotten a work-out equivalent to a ten-mile run. Next year will be the 30th anniversary of the festival.

20080706492_2I can't praise the organizers enough for their ability to provide a seamless experience for those who attend - the festival runs beautifully, shows are on time, and the atmosphere is about as non-commercial, non-obnoxious, and listener-centric as you could possibly imagine. But a big chunk of that credit has to go to this remarkable city where diversity is seen as a gift, and people pride themselves on living together harmoniously. The crowd was truly tout le monde. Even the pretty-much-wasted group of teenagers in front of us were polite about trying not to obscure our view or fall on top of us as they exuberantly danced and celebrated together, and when was the last time an adult asked you - outdoors - if you minded if she smoked just one cigarette?

That kind of consciousness of being fortunate individuals, sharing a space and time, within a greater community is what animates Montreal, and the jazz fest - when we celebrate the long-awaited summer and throw open the city to a huge number of visitors each year - is probably what embodies it the best. For those who'd like to see and hear more, here are some multimedia links , all in English, from the Montreal Gazette's jazz fest website. One of the coolest links is a panorama of the tribute to Leonard Cohen; not only can you fly over the crowd and turn the view 360 degrees, there are clickable links that add sound clips. Better yet -- come on up next year!

July 02, 2008

A Brief Shudder in the Garden

Canadadayparc

Here is a story: you can decide whether it's a tragedy or a comedy. Yesterday I went to Parc Lafontaine in the late afternoon; it was a beautiful, perfect Canada Day and the park was full of quiet groups enjoying each other's company. I sat at the western side, near the fountain, where the bank forms a sort of amphitheater and is covered with long grass. Maybe six other small groups or couples were in the area too, and we all got amused watching a little duckling, newly on its own, swimming around near the shore. A couple, close to it, kept getting up to look when the duckling disappeared in the reeds, and then they'd exchange delighted glances, the girl leaning forward on the bench and pressing her hands together while her investigating boyfriend conveyed his love in backward, big-eyed looks whenever he spotted the little creature, still with patches of fuzzy yellow on its back.

So there you have the scene. Enter a man, thirty-ish, dressed in black, wearing a slouchy hat and sunglasses, accompanied by a smiling huskie-like dog. He lets the dog off the leash and sits in the grass alone, listening to a CD player that he places beside him. After half an hour or so, he gets up to leave, about when I'm thinking of leaving too, and tosses a red ball into the water and whistles for his dog. The dog jumps into the lake but ignores the ball because, of course, he sees motion heading out toward the fountain: the darling little duckling. All of us watch in growing horror as the dog closes in on the frantically swimming baby bird. The man is now standing on the shoreline, calling to the dog, who ignores him. The dog lunges at the bird; no, he's not close enough. The duckling swims ahead, leaving a wake. The dog closes in again. The duckling suddenly tries to dive - an instinctive attempt at escape - but he's too buoyant; he can't make himself go down desipe the desperate flapping of his little upended feet. He pops to the surface -- the dog opens his mouth, lunges forward -- and the duckling disappears. The dog, mouth now closed, turns and paddles triumphantly toward the shoreline where his master is standing, arms at his sides, barking sharp commands. The dog comes up onto the shore, there's a scuffle in the bulrushes as the master tries to empty his mouth; we can't see what's happening; the master snaps on the leash and drags the dog onto the path, looking as discomfited as an actor in the spotlights who has suddenly forgotten the lines of his soliloquy. Those of us who've witnessed the deed stare at the water, casting stunned sideways glances toward each other; no one says a word, and the man, walking stiffly, and his dog exit down the path the way they came.

--

I left and went home, where I told J. the story, which, in spite of my love for the park's ducklings, made us both laugh - it was just so, so...shatteringly non-idyllic. Rather like "Bambi meets Godzilla." And maybe the duckling had survived -- though I doubted it.

I made a picnic of grilled chicken; a salad of Quebec wax beans with shitakes, water chestnuts and walnuts; goat cheese; peaches, raspberries, and mango tossed with a little cognac; and some strong coffee. The two of us carried it all over to the park, spread out a blanket, and took our place among the lovers in their bikinis, the cello and tabla players, the solo readers and meditators, the couple behind us smoking a water pipe, the family picnickers lying in the magical late afternoon sun while their babies rolled and ran in the grass: all happily oblivious to the earlier murder except for a gull who called raucously for an entire hour from the top of a light pole near the shoreline: "If only you knew!"